A fold in the material where you double the material upon itself and then pressing and stitching it into place. Apart from being stylish they are also very practical for freedom of movement, for example in a mans shirt there is a pleat in the back. They are mainly used in skirts to add volume. There are many different types of pleats based on there pressing and stitching.
Knife Pleat
Adjacent underfolds turned in the same direction.
Daniel Scutt S/S 2008
Hermes s/s 2010
Box Pleat
adjacent underfolds of equal depth turned in the opposite direction
Just Cavalli aw 2011
Inverted Pleat
adjacent underfolds of equal depth turned to meet the centre
elie saab A/W2011
Paco Rabanne A/W 2006
Partial Pleats
Flat pleats that open below the top of the fabric with under fold layering removed above the release points . There are two types of Partial pleats
- Extension Pleats
- Set-In Pleats
Projection Pleats
folds that are lifted from the fabric and are stitched at the top in rolled arrangements that are protruding from the fabric. The fabric then falls in deep regular rounded folds.
There are seven basic types of these pleats
double box pleats
single box pleats
three fold and four fold pinch pleats
pipe organ pleats
rollback pinch pleats
pipe organ pleats
rollback cartridge pleats
pipe organ pleats
cartridge pleats
Accordion pleats
A form of tight pleats allowing the garment expand its shape when moving. Evenly spaced parallel pleats with alternating raised and recessed folds set in the fabric. Usually the same as the pleats found in the accordion instrument.
Elie Saab aw 2007
Prada S/S 2012
Tracy Reese A/W 2011
Wrinkled Pleats
Irregular ridges and grooves set by bunching and scrunching damp fabric securing it tightly and letting it dry. There are two types of wrinkled pleating
Broomstick Pleating and Contortion Pleating
Broomstick pleating-damp fabric gathered up, rolled around a cylinder and bound to hold until dry when unwrapped the wrinkled folds are one directional
Contortion Pleating-damp fabric twisted into a rope coiled, knotted, and dried in a microwave. when opened the wrinkled folds are multi directional
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